All the car owner needs to do is connect the positive post on the back of the alternator to the positive post on the starter solenoid or the battery. Throw in your two cents please. Which exact type of regulator do you have? More current should not be pushed through a wire with a problem. What you are experiancing is the alternator feeding back into the ignition. Your expertise is greatly appreciated. Automobile alternators perform more duties than simply recharging a car's battery. You can as a quick fix insert a 3 amp diode in this wire with the line in the direction of the alternator.
A mechanic and truck driver for more than 40 years, Lowell is able to write knowledgeably on many automotive and mechanical subjects. I ran an extra ground wire from the firewall directly to the alternator's mounting bracket just cause I'm paranoid about bad grounds. Sorry, I know this thread is old. So how do you upgrade an electrical system that was never designed for all of these accessories? One of the connectors is typically a threaded bolt protruding from the back the opposite end from the pulley that a wire with a boot on the connecting end is snapped onto. One is the coil resistor, the other is the ign terminal of your old regulator.
It stops the alternator from back feeding the harness, and keeping the ignition circuit hot, with the key off. Are there other ignition fuses I need to look for? Without a solid ground connection, the alternator may not charge properly. I was just reading throuh my manual and read a few threads on converting a generator to altenator. This can also produce a low voltage problem at engine idle speed depending on the amount of reduction. One of them '2' I think you simply loop over and connect to the big wire pole, thats all.
It's perfect, includes part number and everything. The brown wire is what would typically be tied to a charge warning lamp, and is responsible for exciting the charging system. I drive around the neighborhood and all makeing sure everything is fine. I have the alternator wire from the wiring harness hooked up at position 2 on the alternator, position 1 on the alternator is what appears to be a ground connection on my alternator black wire with a ring connector on it and I have that routed to the battery stud which I am now thinking is incorrect. Does the orientation of the electrical connector with the two black wires matter? Running a longer wire back to the battery will require a larger gauge.
Some cars also have an air suspension system, meaning the compressor needs to keep that air tank full — and that draws on the electrical system more than ever was intended. Note that passwords are case-sensitive. I added the lamp and diode 1n5408 if I recall correctly to a switched source. A one wire alternator was only used for limited applications and has distinct disadvantages. This is the speed where the internal sensory circuit connects the battery voltage to the regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on.
As you can see, the further the distance, the bigger the wire should be. Normally the engine has a ground strap between it and the firewall which provides an excellent ground. The biggest wire goes directly to the only large bolt on terminal--the hot battery term. I can buy self exciting regulators for two bucks, and I can buy them for ten bucks. I have headers and getting to the starter is a real pain.
All other trademarks and names are the property of their respective owners. I might also see about installing a higher amp alternator to see if that fixes things. Was searching the Painless site and their latest version of the install manual has this new note! We use data about you for a number of purposes explained in the links below. Special pulleys are not cheap and rebuilders seldom install them. This failure to excite the charge circuit is because of internal shortcuts in components and shoddy regulators.
External voltage regulators are eliminated and built into the alternator itself. After the oil pressure rises above the set point, the alternator energises and starts charging. That single post is the only power connection required, but you will need to be sure the alternator is properly grounded. I am willing to try all places to look. Wiring in this manner is essentially the same as the wiring diagram with respect to attaching 2 to the battery, without the need of running 2 all the way through the harness to the actual battery. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. Due to voltage loss through the wiring, you will actually lose voltage by the time it gets to the firewall and distributor! Below is a chart with the recommended wire gauge for your one-wire alternator.